itwg
home index hotels cities mail Mostra versione Italiana
You are here: Home -> Sicily -> Aeolian Islands -> Tourist Guide
Hotel

Hotels
HOTEL
RESERVATION IN Isole Eolie
Restaurants
Directory
eShop
AEOLIAN ISLANDS

PLOUGHING THROUGH THE AEOLIAN SEA

One proceeds through a confusion of colour, between scenery of incomparable beauty and contrasting character. Islands of wild aspect and sombre coloured coasts, which fall sheer into the sea, offering visions of horrifying beauty, giving way to islands of soft configuration and with verdant slopes; vast sterile, bleak areas extend alongside fertile, pleasant gardens; rust coloured mountains alternating with those white as snow; vast black beaches like ebany contrasting with light coloured shores; inaccessible and winding coasts follow in antetheses to low and hospitable rivieras; bold shaped islets, vigorously outlined against the sky, rise beside others flat and slightly undulating.

In addition to similar contrasts, characteristic peculiarities render the whole archipelago original and interesting: rocks where Nature has been satisfied to create strange perforated rocks resembling bold bridges and rampant arches; dykes which extend like agile spires and obelisks; azure, Parthenopean type grottos; picturesque inlets with quiet recesses: tortuous, narrow valleys with high vertical walls; enourmous rock gardens, cyclopic bulwarks which, falling sheer, offer scenery worthy of the fantastic creation of Dorè; areas of sea in ebullition (due to underwater fumaroles); extensive regions clothed in all the colours of the rainbow (due to the exhalations of underwater fumaroles); rocks with a network of clefts from which boiling water gushes; wild shaped hills issuing lava and projecting lapilli and incandescent scoriae; steep slopes ploughed through by torrents of fire.

He who wanders in the kingdom of Eolo and Vulcano, has the sensation of having fallen, as by enchantment, into a vague land which corresponds only with the world created by the phantasy of Dante and Ariosto.


A geological Synthesis

The Aeolian Archipelago from the tectonic point of view, derives from the ditching of the Tyrrhenian Sea in the Pliocene. This event corresponds to the final stage of the Appennines orogenesis along its internal edge. The following stage allowed a deep magma to run up through leaks which gave origin to the Aeolian volcanism.

This volcanic system rests on the bottom of the Tyrrhenian Sea, whose depth varies from 1000 to 3000 meters It was thought in the Past that the volcanism of the Aeolian Islands had started in the Miocene or in the latter Pliocene: recently some researches, while studying the sea terraces due to the eustatic movements of the Mediterranean, could prove that this volcanism goes back to a more recent age, probably less than a million years ago and, that is, to the Pleistocene.

It has been established that at an earlier stage there took shape the islands of Panarea, Filicudi and Alicudi and part of the apparatuses of Salina and Lipari. In a later phase, in the early Pleistocene, the completion of Lipari and Salina and the formation of Vulcano and Stromboli, took place. Radiometric datations on carbonized vegetables made it possible to establish three periods of activity.

In the first period (between 330 and 160 thousand years) the volcanic buildings of Panarea and the dome of Capo Graziano took shapel in the second (between 160 and 130 thousand years) corresponding to the main phase of activity, there took shape: Mount Chirica at Lipari; at Salina Mount Rivi, Capo and Pizzo Corvo; at Filicudi the Fossa delle Felci, at Alicudi the Montagnola; in the third period (between 130 thousand years up to the present days) there took shape at Lipari, Mounts S. Angelo, Guardia and Pelato; at Salina, Fossa delle Felci, Monte dei Porri, Pollara; at Filicudi, Montagnola and il Torrione; at Alicudi acid lava expansions toolk place.

The island of Panarea is the oldest apparatus of the Archipelago. Vulcano rises at 100 thousand years with subsequent formations of stratum volcanoes to the South, of Caldera, Fossa and Vulcanello. Stromboli starts its activity (at 40 thousand years) with Vancori; subsequently the Cima took shape and at last the present crater.

The Aeolian volcanism is characterized by an evolution of the nature of magma.


Hot spring manifestations

The Aeolian Archipelago is a centre of attraction not only for the variety of its natural beauties, but also for its hot springs of high therapeutic value. Such post-volcanic manifestations are encountered at Vulcano, Lipari and Panarea. At Lipari only there are Spa Baths (S. Calogero) now being restored; Vulcano should deserve to be supplied with modern equipments, withouth modifying the environment.

So far the waters and mud, exploited with primeval systems, have always given excellent results. As well as for articulation affections; the waters and mud of Vulcano prove most effective for neuralgia and neurites, affections of circulation, flebitis and varicose ulcers, diseases of the female genital organs and for dermatological affections.

For Vulcano, being a matter of natural volcanic mud with a high radon content and also hot springs, the criterium of choice from the point of view of the healing activity can be considered exclusive. The hot springs of S. Calogero, famous also during the Roman Empire, as we are told by Diodoro Siculo, have been exalted at all times. Pirro, Chirone, Corfi, Strarrulla, Mercalli and others have dealt with them in their writings and all have agreed in classifying them amongst the best in Italy.

They are salty-sulphate-bicarbonatesodium-hyperthermal (60 C). In addition these waters have been prescribed and commended by High Authorityes of Medical science such as Cardarelli, Tomaselli, Paolucci and D'Arrigo. But the best proof of their exceptional value is supplied each year by the immediate cure of invalids who before experimenting the Aeolian waters had tried in vain other hot spring installations.


Climatic Conditions

The climate of the Archipelago, owing to the poor precipitations, the mild temperature in Winter and cool in Summer is remarkably dry. The changes of temperature are never great. The medium temperatures range from 13°C in Winter (January) to 20°C in Spring (May) and to 27°C in Summer (July) and 21°C in Autumn (October). The average temperature for the year is between 20°C and 16°C.

Rainfall is not abundant (from 500 to 600 mm. annually), distributed over 50 to 100 rainy days with a maximum in Winter. The annual average relative humidity is 77% with minimum values in August (69%) and maximum in May (73%).

The predominant winds, in the annual average are the North-West ones "Maestrale", and the South-East ones "scirocco". The sky is blue duting 70% of the Summer days, 25% in Winter, 35% in Spring and 50% in Autumn.


Vegetation and Fauna

The Mediterranean vegetation is characteristic (partly destroyed or ruined by Man) and is comprised mainly by oleanders, myrtle trees, cysts brushwood, heather, broom and prickly-leaf oak. There are also aromatic shrubs of rosemary. thyme, heliotrope and lentisk. Two woody plants abound in practically the whole of the Aeolian area: the vine and the olive tree.

The vegetation is characterized by cultivations of olive trees and vineyards, now almost neglected, by formations of bush and pioneer vegetation. The bush covers almost all the islands, mainly on the highest part of the mountains. Among the various endemisms present in the Aeolian Islands, characterizing the vegetation, one can find: the Cytisus aeolicus; called Sgubbiu in the local dialect, in few specimen, the Centaurea Cineraria aeolica, besides the Kochia saxicola found at Strombolicchio On the island of Vulcano and Salina, you can find some arboreous entities not related to the Aeolian vegetations, which have been recently introduced by reafforestation and which vary the Aeolian vegetation.

Among the fruit trees the following are worthy of particular mention: the fig, the almond; the plum, the carob tree and the prickly pear. Characteristic plants are the caper and esparto grass. Owing to the deficiency of water, the areas devoted to the culture of citrus fruits are very limited.

The growing of cereals is also of limited importance and the production is not sufficient to satisfy local requirements. Amongst the products exported, the malvasia grapes and capers are worthy of note. The fauna is very varied and rich and is represented by birds and lezards among the Vertebrates, while the Invertebrates are present with Tenebronida Coleopters and Gasteropoda Molluscs. On the islands, in Spring and Autumn, migratory birds such as pelicans, red or ash herons, cormorants, flamingoes, cranes. wild geese, anatides quails and "cigeri" pass over the island. The most interesting permanent kinds are the magpie (major and minor) locally called "araghiune". Among the birds of prey one may see, are the mediterranean falcon. the "lodaiolo", the queen falcon and the cuckoo falcon.

The rearing of sheep, goats and cattle is of a certain importance (The Plain of Vulcano). Wild rabbits are to be found in most of the islands. Fishing is carried on in most parts. Anchovies, sardines, mackerel, molluscs and shell fish are the most common types. The fishing of palamido is typical, also of tunny and sword-fish, which is carried out towards the end of the Spring season at Lipari and Stromboli where fishermen from Sicily also throng.


Historical Traces

The Aeolian Islands have been inhabited, since the beginning of the IV millenium B.C. by peoples coming from Sicily lured by the tremendous economic resource offered by obsidian, which perhaps, had only been thrown out a short time before by the volcano of Monte Pelato (NE of Lipari). Obsidian, a black coloured cutting volcanic glass was very much in demand when the manufacturing of metals hadn't yet been extended so it constituted the basis of the extraordinary prospetity enjoyed by the islands through at least two thousand years. Obsidian of Lipari had been abundantly found in the Neolithic villages of Sicily and of the Italian Peninsula, but it reached also the coasts of the South of France and Dalmatia.

After a few centuries of decay, in the second half of the III and the beginning of the II millenium, the Aeolian Islands had a new economic and civil awakening in the Bronze Age starting from the XVIII century B.C. This awakening is due to the regular contacts which had been established with the Principalities of Mycenean Greece, which through daring sailing trips explored western seas, looking for those raw materials necessary to its power and survival. The islands were then populated by Mycenean peoples of Aeolian descent, already firmly settled at Metaponte. The islands became for them outposts for the control of the commercial roads crossing the Strait of Messina.

The islands took the name which still have from these Aeolian peoples. To them refer the legends of the mythic king of the winds Eolo, cited by Homer in his Odysee. During the XIII century B.C., Ausonic peoples, coming from the coasts of Campania, settled in the island. The legend of king Liparo, from whom the town takes its name is connected to them. Neglected at the end of the X century B.C., possibly owing to rivalries among different peoples for supremacy on Southern Tyrrhenian, the islands remained for a few centuries almost deserted. During the 50th Olympiad (580-576 B.C.) Lipari was colonized by a group of Greeks of Doric race, coming from Cnido and Rodi, led by the heraclite Pentathlon, who survived after an unsuccessful attempt opposed by the Elimi of Segesta and the Carthaginians of colonization on the site of the present Marsala.

The new settlers had to defend themselves from the invasions of the Etruchians (Tyrrhennians). They had then to equip a powerful fleet which brought brilliant successes ensuring their supremacy on the sea. With the riches from their conquests, they erected in the Sanctuary of Apollo at Delfo, magnificent votive monuments (altogether over 40 bronze statues, whose bases still stand in testimony). The Leparese fleet dominated the Southern Tyrrhenian sea and in 393 B.C. they intercepted a Roman vessel carrying a great golden vase to Delfo, which reppresented a tenth part of the booty conquered at Veio. However Timositeo, their Magistrate, made them return it being an offering to the God Apollo, worshipped by Leparese. In 427 B.C.,during the first Athenian expedition to Sicily, under the command of Lache, the Liparese formed an alliance with the Syracusans, possibly owing to their common Doric origin. They suffered many attacks, as Tucidide affirms, on the part of the Athenian and Reggian fleet, but without serious consequences.

In the Carthaginian expedition of 408-406, Lipari was again on friendly relations with Syracuse. It was therefore attacked by the Carthaginian general Imilcone who, taking possession of the city, extorted from the inhabitants an indemnity of 30 talents. With the Carthaginians departed, Lipari returned to the full enjoyment of its independence. During the domination of Dionisio the Old, Lipari remained at the side of Syracuse and later of Tindari. In the year 304 the island was attacked by Agatocle who imposed a tribute of 50 talents, which he lost during the crossing towards Sicily owing to a storm attributed to the anger of Eolo. Later Lipari fell under the Carthaginian yoke and was still thus when the first Punic war broke out. Owing to its excellent ports and position of high strategic value, the Archipelago became one of the best Carthaginian naval stations. In 262 the Roman consul Cn. Cornelius Scipione, under the illusion of being capable of easily taking possession of Lipari, was trapped there by Hannibal and captured with the whole of his squadron. In 258 Lipari was besieged by Atilio Calatino. In 257 the Aeolian waters formed the theatre of a fierce battle between the Carthaginian and Roman fleets. Lipari was conquered by the Romans in 252 B.C. Razed to the ground by means of cruel slaughters, it lost with its independence its economic prosperity and a period of severe decline began.

However it gained great economic advantages from the allum which had probably been extracted from the island of Vulcano since the Bronze Age of which Lipari had the monopoly in the ancient world. The excellent hot springs of Vulcano and Lipari were also much visited and were also known by Imperial Rome. Cicero includes Lipari among the "decuman cities" and speaks about how they had been abused by Verre. The Aeolian Islands enjoyed a period of great strategic imponance during the civil war between Ottaviano, master of Italy, and Sesto Pompeo, master of Sicily. Lipari, fortified by Sesto Pompeo, was conquered in 36 B.C. by Agrippa, Admiral of Ottaviano who based his fleet on the island of Vulcano for the operations proceeding the naval battle of Milazzo and the subsequent landing in Sicily. On this occasion, Lipari was again plundered and ravaged. It seems that it was subsequently constituted as a Municipality. Plinium called it "oppidum civium romanorum". We know nothing of Lipari during all the Roman Imperial Age (I-IV century A.D.). We only know that Emperor Caracalla, after having executed his father-in-law Plauziano, banished his wife Plautilla there and his brother-in-law Plauzio, who died in exile.

In the Christian Age (possibly since the IV century), Lipari was an Episcopal residence and at least since the VI century, the body of S. Bartolomeo miraculously landed from Armenia according to Byzantine writers, has been venerated in its Cathedral. During the centuries of the early Middle Ages, Lipari was the destination of pilgrims coming from near and far countries. In this period, various and rich traditions flourish about the Aeolian Islands and in particular about Lipari and Vulcano. We have already mentioned those relative to the miraculous arrival of the body of S. Bartolomeo, which were accompanied by other miraculous events. The crater of Vulcano was then believed to be the mouth of Hell, where the lost souls burned. A wellknown legend is told by Gregorio Magno about the hermit who, on the same day as Teodorico's death, had seen the soul of the Goth King thrown into the crater by Pope John and by the noble Simmaco, whom he had executed. Other legends flourish about the saint Bishop Agatone and the hermit S. Calogero who delivered the island from the devils and caused the springing of beneficial waters which bear his name. In the early Middle Ages there was a sudden awakening (after many milleniums of calm) of the volcanic activity on the island of Lipari. It opened then the new crater of Monte Pelato which erupted huge masses of pumice stones, and that nearer to the city of Pirrera, which erupted an outflow of obsidian. In 839 Lipari was attacked and destroyed by an incursion of Moslems, who slaughtered and carried away in slavery all the inhabitants and profaned the relics of S. Bartolomeo.

The latter, piously collected by some old monks who had escaped the slaughter, the following year were carried to Salerno and from there to Benevento. Lipari remained almost completely deserted for a few centuries; until Sicily was reconquered by the Normans who, in 1083 installed in Lipari the Abbot Ambrogio with a group of Benedictine monks. Around the monastery, relics of which still exist beside the Cathedral, a urban centre took shape again. In 1131 the Episcopal residence of Lipari was reconstituted together with that of Patti. Roberto I King of Naples. in 1340; took possession of Lipari. In 1544 the city was ransacked by the ferocious pirate Ariadeno Barbarossa, who carried away the unhappy inhabitants as slaves. Lipari was subsequently rebuilt and repopulated by Carlo V and from then onwards followed the destinies of Sicily and the kingdom of Naples.


Web Guide
Cities

© 1996/2000 by ITWG.COM srl