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It starts from the centre of town, piazza Dante, along vico Dritto di
Ponticello, a slope leading to the old eastern gateway to town, Porta Soprana.
The door, in its monumental shape, was built up in 1155-57 on the vestiges of
the 9th-century wall and it has been restored several times since the end of the
last century.
Among the many houses which stood along the way in, only the
so-called Columbus' house has survived. The house was rebuilt during the 18th
century on the ruins of a former building owned by the navigator's father. In
the garden behind the house was settled the cloister (12th century) that was
part of the destroyed monastery of S. Andrea.
After crossing the Soprana
gateway we take on the left. Via Ravecca follows the inner path of the medieval
wall and leads to piazza Sarzano. The narrow and lengthened shape of this square
is overlooked by the bell-tower of the auditorium of S. Agostino (13th century),
formerly a church its spire is covered with little multi-coloured majolica
tiles. The square is faced also by the modern Museum of Ligurian Sculpture.
[Turning left into via Ravasco, and then again to the left, we go up a brick
stair until we reach the suggestive path that runs on the top of the walls
called "of Barbarossa" (1155). From here we'll enjoy a view of the modern
buildings of via Madre di Dio and of the 18th-century Carignano bridge; in the
background stands the Basilica dell'Assunta, a magnificent work by Galeazzo
Alessi (16th century) which deserves a visit for the high architectural quality
of its interior.]
Let's go back to piazza Sarzano: on the left, at the very
top of the Castello hill, there is the new seat of the Faculty of Architecture.
The pre-Roman fortified town was built just in this area, where the Bishop's
mansion and two important convent buildings were later erected. At the
bottom of the square, after a short walk along via S. Croce, we enter via S.
Maria di Castello passing a big vault on the right. Then, we go up into the part
of the city where there are still signs of the 2nd world war bombing, on the
right, the little square of S. Maria in Passione, delimited by buildings
presenting visible medieval features. The slope continues downward alongside S.
Maria di Castello, the main church of the castrum, i.e. the oldest settlement of
the city. Since the 15th century the building had been inhabitated by the
Domenicani monks, who enriched it with three cloisters, the largest presenting
overlapping and partly frescoed loggias.
The interior of the church has a severe
Romanic frame with a nave and two aisles, on the columns are visible several
Roman salvages. Walking down the stairway next to the tall Torre degli
Embriaci (12th century), one of the few surviving towers of the old city, we
reach piazza Embriaci. The square is overlooked by the 16th-century palace of
Giulio Sale. Opposite, the ruins of a Lombard-style painted front, with
architectural subjects and grotesque (datable by the beginning of the 16th
century). Vico S. Biagio leads into via S. Bernardo, a centre line of the
civitas, that is the first town-expansion down the Castello hill. Beautiful
portals, again in Lombard style, at no. 16r. (15th century) and, on the left, at
no. 12 of the nearby piazza Grillo Cattaneo; here, like in the palace of Giulio
Sale, the facing low walls formed the boundary of the private zone of a curia,
site of a medieval family nucleus.
Taking vico Dietro il Coro dl S. Cosimo,
we run alongside the apse and the side of SS. Cosma e Damiano, a church whose
parts made of stone still reveal the original Romanic frame (11 th century); the
portal on the facade is made with salvages of a Roman architrave. In front of
it, a narrow alley leads into via delle Grazie.
[With a turning of about 500
metres from our itinerary we'll reach piazza Cavour, and beyond it the quartiere
del molo ('pier quarter'). The quarter was built up in connection with the
oldest quay of the port, and it is delimited downstream by the 16th-century
Porta Siberia, designed by the already mentioned Galeazzo Alessi (who also
designed the Basilica of Carignano) ].
On the right-hand side, via delle
Grazie leads into piazza Cattaneo; the homonymous 17th-century palace shows a
precious staircase and a pre-existing medieval frame. We reach then piazza S.
Giorgio, delimited by two churches: one of them is dedicated to S. Giorgio,
former patron of the town, and has ancient origins (first mentioned in 964); the
other one, S. Torpete church, is still the patrician church of the Cattaneo
family. In this square the first city market operated (11th century), in the
area between the port inlet and via Giustiniani, a centre line running in
parallel with via S. Bernardo and going into the civitas.
Proceeding towards
the north straight on via Canneto il Curto we see on the right the little piazza
Stella, where the traces of a medieval porch are visible. From here, along vico
del Sale, we reach piazza Sauli, presenting beautiful marble portals: the one at
no. 23 r. is particularly remarkable for its candelabra subjects (end of the
15th century). On the facade of the building no. 7 a painted decoration is shown
by the falling of large parts of plaster; the decoration is similar to the one
already seen in piazza Embriaci.
>We walk along vico Sauli and turn left into
via Canneto il Lungo in order to return to via Canneto il Curto, which is
farther interrupted by the straight stretch of via S. Lorenzo. The widening of
via S. Lorenzo during the last century caused a sudden interruption in the
medieval street network. After crossing this street, we keep straight on via
Canneto il Curto until we get into piazza Cinque Lampadi, situated at the
northern boundary of the 9th-century wall. Nearby stood the S. Pietro gateway
and, beyond it, just outside the wall, the market of Banchi (see Itinerary "B").
Flanking the left side of the porch owned by the De Martini family ( 13th
century) along vico delle Scuole Pie and then crossing another medieval porch
owned by the Cicala family (presenting Roman salvages in columns and capitals),
we reach piazza Scuole Pie, a rectangular space of the 2nd half of the 16th
century, now delimited by the 18th-century facades of the Scolopi church and of
Elena and Cicala palaces. In front of the church vico del Filo ledds into piazza
S. Lorenzo, created during the 19th century - just like the homonymous street -
to give more room to the monumental facade of the cathedral.
The church was
originally included within the 9th-century wall; it was rebuilt in Romanic shape
at the beginning of the 12th century and was again modified a century later. The
magnificent portals belong to that period: they show influence of the early
French Gothic style and they are adorned with polychrome marbles, sheafs of
little columns and figured reliefs.
The black-and-white pattern spreads over the
upper rows of the facade; these rows belong to different periods, the belltower
being ultimated by 1522. Inside, the columns (rebuilt at the beginning of the
14th century) present the same two-coloured pattern; the barrel vaults of the
aisles, the dome, the transept and apses zone - richly adorned date back to the
16th century. On the left aisle, near the entry of the Museum of the
Treasure, the three-arched marble Cappella del Battista ("St John the Baptist's
Chapel") is still visible; this is one of the most important issues of the
15th-century culture owed to the Lombard sculptors Domenico and Elia Gagini, who
featured it by a complex series of reliefs. Going along via S. Lorenzo, on
the right side of the cathedral we'll reach the S. Gottardo portal, dating
earlier than the facade as once it was part of the Romanic church. A little
farther, on the other side of the road, vico Nostra Signora del Soccorso leads
into the medieval street network. Crossing via Canneto il Lungo - which keeps a
definite commercial function - (at no. 67 a medieval walled-up porch) we enter
piazza Valoria, a 16th-century space conceived in connection to the coeval
Palazzo Peirano, with its prospect painted with portraits of soldiers and
emperors.
Via Valoria takes into via Giustiniani, the centre line of the
civitas: walking down towards piazza S. Giorgio we reach piazza Giustiniani,
surrounded by buildings which have been restored during the 18th century. A
fall of plaster from the minor prospect corresponding to no. 6 shows the
underlying black-and-white pattern.
In the opposite direction, via Chiabrera
leads into via S. Bernardo, where we find a walled-up porch supported by black
and white pillars (no. 18), in the next little square stands the Salvago palace
(no. 26) presenting a beatiful 16th-century portal surmounted by statues of
savages that refer at the name of the family who owned the house. Via S.
Bernardo takes into piazza Ferretto and then into piazza S. Donato. The Church
of S. Donato was built up and enlarged during the 12th century. Its facade has
been deeply modified by the 19th-century restorations. The interior - framed
like a basilica - presents salvages of Roman columns next to the presbitery, and
medieval capitals near the entrance (that is the area involved by the
enlargements quoted above). Getting out from the right side of the church (where
stradone S. Agostino goes up to piazza Sarzano) we can see the beautiful
octogonal tower presenting a row of mullioned windows and a row of windows with
three lights (the third row being due to the 19th-century restoration).
Going back to via
S. Bernardo, we take via S. Donato towards piazza delle Erbe, through a scenery
still heavily marked by the 2nd world war bombs. Vico delle Erbe leads up into
piazza Matteotti; the square is overlooked by the broad neoclassical facade of
the Palazzo Ducale ("Ducal Palace", 18 th century), a complex architectural body
designed by the end of the 16th century. The side foreparts were formerly
connected by a wall curtain which was demolished in the last century to create a
monumental public area strictly related to the tracing of via S. Lorenzo.
Towards via S. Lorenzo, beyond the Palazzo Arcivescovile ("Archiepiscopal
Palace"), stands out the 16th-century dome of the cathedral; the facade of the
Chiesa del Gesù ("Jesuits'Church") opens to the right side of the Ducal palace.
Between the church and the wing of the Ducal palace, we can see the 19th-century
theatre Carlo Felice located in piazza De Ferrari. This theatre has been
recently restored. The urban scenery is crowned on its right hand side by the
towers of the Soprana gateway and the skyscrapers of piazza Dante.
Before
entering piazza De Ferrari, the Jesuits' Church above mentioned is worth a
visit. It is also dedicated to S. Ambrogio: this fact reveals a former medieval
construction partly issued by a Milanese colony settled in the area then kown as
"Brolio". The interior is rich in frescoes, it is characterized by a magnificent
multi-coloured marble coating spreading from the floor to the pillars and to the
side chapels.
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