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GENOVA Tourist Guide and Informations
In this page:
Historical Informations | Art and Culture | How to arrive in Genoa | How to get around in Genoa | Shops and markets | Food
Genoa
HISTORICAL INFORMATIONS
The main center of the Liguri Genuates, Genoa developed as a maritime emporium beginning in the 5th century BC. In 205, it was destroyed by the Carthaginians because of its loyalty to Rome. In the 3rd century it became a municipality and episcopal diocese. It achieved its maximum importance as a maritime republic in the 13th century, after defeating Pisa in 1284 and gaining predominance over the Tirrenian Sea. Due to feuds and rivalry with Venice it tightened political alliances with France, but eventually was conquered by that country in 1499 and again in 1502. It gained permanent independence from France in 1528.
The famous admiral, Andrea Doria, managed to re- establish the independence of the Genoese Republic, which was maintained up to the Napoleanic period. After that, in 1814, it was annexed to Piedmont. After the creation of the Italian State in 1861, the city developed its economic functions through rapid industrial and commercial progress. Genoa was occupied by the Germans in 1943; however, it was the first city of western Italy to rise up against the Occupation (24 April, 1945) and to force the German garrison to unconditional surrender, prior to the arrival of Allied troops.

Art and culture
Artistically speaking, the most lively periods for Genoa were the Middle Ages and the 16th and 17th centuries. The medieval city extended from the port towards the west, the hills and the present monumental bridge, continuing up to Piazza Fontana Marose and "Lanterna" (the symbol of Genoa). The new walls contained the Casteletto and the foothills of the Montegalletto. The neighborhoods were formed by typical small lanes flanked by tall buildings called "caruggi." These were rich with important monuments: from the churches of San Donato and Santa Maria di Castello to the Cathedral; from Sant'Andrea Gate to the homes of the Doria, and to San Giogio Palace. In the 16th and 17th centuries Genoa's architecture flourished. Famous architects such as G. Alessi, G. B. Castello, G. Ponzello, P.F. Cantone and others created an extremely original complex of churches, towns and above all, princely palaces. Painting and sculpture, essentially decorative in function, developed alongside works of art by painters such as Luca Cambiaso, Valerio Castello, Fiasella, Piola, De Ferrari, Assereto and Carlone. These created an authentic Genoese school with contributions from Flemish painters like Rubens and van Dyck, who lived in Genoa. Following are the principal museums, monuments and points of interest of the city.

How to arrive in Genoa
By car By train
Highway A10 (E80) Ventimiglia-Genoa
Highway A12 (E80) Livorno-Genoa
Highway A7 (E25) Milano-Genoa
Highway A26 Alessandria-Genoa
The trains follow the routes of the major highways.
The Ventimiglia-La Spezia line gathers travelers in western Italy, going to Turin via Savona-Genoa, Milan via Genoa, Parma via La Spezia and joins the Tirrenica line for Rome, Naples and the South.
Liguria is served by the principle international lines, coming from Nice, Moncenisio (near Turin), Gottardo, Germany, Austria and Slovenia.
Rapid connections are guaranteed by the TEE, EC and IC trains, and by connections with convenient times in all directions.
Railroad Information: 010-284081.
By plane By ship
The international airport of Genoa Sestri, "Cristoforo Colombo," was built in the area resulting from a marine landfill. It includes over 130 hectares (some 52 acres) with a landing strip of 2.5 kilometers.
It has an efficient service of land and air assistance. Genoa's airport is always open and has the unusual characteristic of being centrally located, only 6 km from downtown Genoa.
It has regular service to principal European cities, with major stopovers in Italy and direct air connections to and from Genoa for: Alghero, Barcelona, Cagliari, Catania, Frankfurt, Geneva, London (LGW), Milan (LIN), Munich, Naples, Rome, Trieste, Zurich.
Cristoforo Colombo Airport: 2411
Information: 010-2415410 / 6015410
Flight Information for Genoa,
tel. 010-6512728, fax 010-6512727
Tourist flights on request,
Aeroclub of Genoa,
tel. 010-6512728, fax 010-6512727
The port of Genoa is the most important Mediterranean and transatlantic maritime headquarters for passengers and merchandise.
Ships arrive from ports in Europe, the Far East, the Americas, Africa and other continents. Frequent connections are guaranteed on national and Mediterranean routes, also for car ferries (Sardinia, Sicily, Corsica).
Regular lines travel to the ports of La Spezia, Savona and Imperia. Smaller tourist ports allow docking of pleasure craft of every size, with optimum installations and services.
In recent years shipboard vacations are again becoming appreciated. The introduction of new and up-to-date ships has been an active stimulus to cruise boats leaving from the port of Genoa.
Maritime Port Services
tel. 010-265712;
Large Fast Ships (Grandi Navi Veloci), Genoa: tel. 010-589331;
Tirrenia Ferries: 010-258014.

How to get around in Genoa
The best way to see the historic center is by foot. Arriving by car, the recommended access route is via Piazza Sarzano (paid parking in Piazza Carignano) or via Porta Soprana/ Columbus' House. Arriving by train, at Porta Principe Station, one can easily reach the via Prè area; while arriving by sea, for example with a cruise, one can take a bus to Caricamento and then continue by foot through the labyrinth of "caruggi," the typical little Genoese streets flanked by tall buildings and impressive monuments. If one gets lost, it's enough to follow a road in descent to reach the sea.

Shops and Markets

By walking through the streets late in the morning or in the afternoon, one gathers the real essence of daily life in Genoa for the Genoese. There is the hustle and bustle of people running from one shop to the next, the shouts of ambulatory salesmen, the intense odors of cafés, of drugstores, of bars and restaurants.
Every corner of the city offers a valid impulse for all kinds of shopping.

In via San Bernardo, one can discover a type of shop that isn’t seen much anymore. This is the ancient drugstore Torielli with its historic sign, which sells everything from aromatic teas to Aleppo pistachios, from candied fruit covered with chocolate to home-toasted nuts.
The streets and shops have maintained their old bazaar atmosphere, from the time when, a few meters from the overhanging street, ships pulled up laden with all sorts of merchandise.
Even today, not far from the Old Port, one can enter typical little shops and buy foods from every corner of the world: imperial duck egg, shark fins, abalone and wine from China, perfumed rice from Thailand, kalamata olives and ouzo from Greece, couscous from North Africa.
The "Oriental Market" is a large covered market facing the centrally located via XX Settembre. This owes its name not to its exotic offerings but rather to its position respective of the historic center (to the east).
Here we find everything from fresh fish to exotic fruit, from oriental spices to local gastronomy.
The tradition of Genoese sweets is substantiated by a tempting itinerary that leads from the ancient Viganotti laboratory of Vico Castagna for chocolates, to Romanengo in via Soziglia, for candied fruits and "quaresimali" (Lenten cookies), to Profumo in via del Portello for pandolce. Another characteristic corner of the city is just under the boardwalk of Corso Italia. Here there are two or three fish restaurants, an old foccaccio shop, and an ice cream shop with a very special "panera," a type of "semifredda" made with coffee-flavored ice cream cake topped with whipped cream.

In the elegant via Roma one finds Finollo, where famous-brand shirts and ties in Liberty-style are sold.
We conclude this brief shopping excursion in Piazza delle Erbe. Here there is a beautiful antiquarian bookstore where one can acquire rare volumes and old prints. In front of the bookstore is the famous Berto Bar (founded in 1906), entirely covered with Albisola ceramics, where in the 50’s the film maker Mario Costo shot some scenes for the film "Perdonami" ("Forgive Me").



Food

The authentic traditional cooking of a region or of a city, always strictly tied to its natural resources, represents a concrete testimony to the past and permits the revival of practices deeply rooted over time.
Liguria is a poor region considered in terms of agriculture, especially in parts of the hinterland which have remained untouched by external influences. However, it conserves intact a patrimony of peasant culture.
Finally, Genoa, like Italy, has a long history of political independence. All these elements come together in the Ligurian and Genoese culinary tradition, which lacks those sumptuous contaminations typical of other Italian cities that have felt foreign domination even at their tables.
Genoa’s cooking, moreover, shows a certain sobriety, which is not at all a lack of fantasy (as is shown by the inventive use of both wild and aromatic herbs and blending of flavors), but rather reflects a lifestyle.
The Asian contributions, which are easily explainable, are never off-key. Several dishes show the Asian influence, such as "scucuzzù," for example, a soup containing little balls of pasta that even in its name is connected to couscous. Raviolis are also of Asian origin. The scarcity of fresh fish dishes should not come as a surprise, because the Ligurians have always been great sailors and traders, but poor fisherman.
The Ligurian Sea, furthermore, because of its sea bottom, doesn’t offer many resources. However, in many old recipes fish is still important. Seafood "capponada" (salted anchovies served on a base of crackers) is the basis of "cappon magro" a grandiose and complex dish based on fresh fish and vegetables in green parsley sauce.
The characteristics of the Ligurian land are also reflected in the fact that few dishes are based on meat. Not too long ago meat was reserved exclusively for holidays. Worthy of note are stuffed "cima", meat pockets filled with sweetbreads, brain, veal, egg, vegetables and flavorings, cooked in broth and cold-pressed.
Veal, vegetables and spices are also the basis for ravioli fillings.
In Genoa’s hills the cuisine favors chicken and rabbit. In the city, there are still many tripe shops that furnish ingredients for some simple, old-fashioned dishes like "sbira," a tripe soup flavored with tomato sauce and herbs that differs from a similar Tuscan dish which contains potatoes. Finally, worth mentioning are "berodi," which are blood sausages made from pork, obligatory on the Christmas table, and Sant’ Olcese salamis.
Vegetable dishes are numerous and exquisite. Fried eggplant, onion and zucchini are filled and fried, baked or steamed. A delicate broth is made from stuffed greens.
Meat loaf called "scarbasse" is made with string beans, potatoes, ricotta cheese and egg. The celebrated Easter cake called "torta Pasqualina" is filled with numerous layers prepared using a special technique and based on chard, egg and curd.
Aromatic herbs have particular importance in Genoa’s cuisine, which avoids sauces and rich dishes. Preferred herbs are garlic, oregano, marjoram, parsley, and, above all, basil. The celebrated "pesto" is prepared by pounding basil leaves, garlic and pecorino cheese in a marble mortar, finally flavoring this mixture with olive oil.
Many traditional dishes have almost disappeared from use; others, however, are still part of daily routine and can be found everywhere. In the typical fish and chips shops, together with blue fish and baccalà, they often serve "farinata" (chickpea flour mixed with water to form a paste, then cooked in a pizza oven in the appropriate sauce pan or baking dish), "cuculli," made from chickpea flour, and "frisceu," a light, round vegetable croquette. At Christmas "pandolce" is present on every table. "Canestrelli," typical cookies from Genoa’s hills, are also unforgettable, as are "panera," ice cream cakes made with whipped cream and coffee.

Genoa’s wines boast an ancient tradition. Even the Valpolicevera tablet, the oldest document concerning the history of Genoa, mentions wines produced in this area. In the late middle ages, the Carignano hills were rich in vineyards, as were other places like Rivarolo and Quarto. Today only the "Coronato" is still popular. This is a white wine with an unmistakable aftertaste of sulfur!
Some of the wines produced in the region are widely known, for example, "Bianco Secco," the dry white of Cinque Terre, "Sciacchetrà" of Riviera di Levante, "Pigato," "Vermentino," and "Rossese di Dolceacqua" from Riviera di Ponente.
Ligurian wines have a limited production and it is becoming more difficult to find genuine ones. At Genoa, therefore, people drink "Bianca di Gava" above all. This is produced in Piedmont in the area bordering Liguria. The "Barbera" and "Dolcetta", both red wines, are also of good quality.

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